Sunday, April 22, 2012

Domino Crib Sheet - 3 Topics - Mid-Panel Joinery, Cut-to-Length Stock, Pinning Joints

A final installment in what was apparently a crazy long Saturday.  I think I will hear my computer burp when I delete all this footage!

In this Domino crib sheet, I demonstrate two techniques for placing a joint accurately mid-panel.  You'd typically do this to Domino a shelf into the side of a cabinet, but I've also used this many times to place smaller 'rail/stile' pieces mid-panel as well.  One technique lets you set the top of the shelf or joining member while the other lets you center it on a line.

The second topic is more a continuation of the Domizilla review I did recently since I now have the cut-to-length tenon stock that is being released with the Domino XL DF-700.  Even if you don't have an XL, the 8mm and 10mm cut-to-length stock will be useful for times when you need a different custom tenon length.  Personally, I've made my own  longer DF-500 tenons on a couple home projects (stair refacing, suspended shelving, and installation French cleat for a built-in cabinet).

Third topic, pinning joints with a 23ga pin nailer.  I did a demonstration of this in a previous DF-500 demo, but it's useful enough for a re-run.  This can significantly reduce your need for clamps with certain builds, but regardless that benefit, it adds strength.

Now to get back to editing video for the 'angle madness entertainment center'...

Admit it, you're gonna miss that shirt now that the series is over...  but fear not!  A yoga hottie told me it's her favorite shirt so, oh my!, it'll be back :)

For disclosure, I received the Domino XL early as part of the Test Drive program, which requires testers to return the full kit on June 1, 2012 or allows the testers to purchase it at a small discount.


  • srjaynes49 said...


    Take a look at the Kreg Jig web site and look for angled pocket hole joints.

    There's a trick which basically mates an angled bevel to a 90 degree end. Then the extra length is trimmed flat. That has severel advantages in that it avoids the fragile double bevels meeting and it also provides maximum depth for the pocket hole screw effective hole length. The pocket hole is drilled on the 90 degree mating piece and the screw penetrates into the one beveled edge.

    That same trick should improve the available length for a loose tenon (Domino) joint in the same or similar construction. Let me know what you think.

    Steve J.
    Portland, OR

  • greymann said...

    In your demo using the pin nailer, I noticed your very petite air bottle. I searched around and couldn't locate one that size. Who makes it and where did you find it.

  • HalfInchShy said...

    Hi, Greymann,

    That's a PowerTank CO2 bottle. I reviewed it here. I love that I can put crown up in a room or whatever without hauling a compressor or hearing it rattle; also was nice when I had to do some nailing up on the roof since I could hang the bottle from a belt and go everywhere. Well worth it.

  • Ed Surowiec said...

    Hey Paul greetings from snowy Maryland.2/14/13. I just received my DF-500 and was cruising your Blog to soak up info. Man its like taking a drink from a Fire Hose, great job and very nice of you to share. One question please, how did you plunge the longer home made DR-500 Tenons. I thought the max was 50 mm.
    Ed Surowiec.

  • HalfInchShy said...

    Sorry for the delay, Ed! Thanks for the compliments!

    The longer tenons still cannot go further than 28mm into either side of the joint since that's your plunge limit with the DF-500. The 700 Domizilla has a greater depth capacity, but that's not the question :) So if you make your own stock or use the cut-to-length stock, you can make tenons up to 28x2 or 56mm long with either side going into the joint by 28mm. There's a bit more room than that if you measure the plunged joint but the remaining space is for glue recess.

    Hope that answers the question; if not, bounce back another (and I'll try again :)

  • Wick said...

    This is a general thank you for all the blog posts you've done on the Domino and all the tips and crib notes. As a new Domino owner I find them invaluable.

    I know it takes a lot of time and effort to plan and shoot the videos and then edit them. I want you to know that they are very useful and quite appreciated.

  • HalfInchShy said...

    Thanks for the compliments, Wick!

  • Anonymous said...

    Thanks a lot for all your videos and suggestions. I purchased a Domino awhile ago and come back often to your site- I always learn something new.
    For what its worth regarding the mid-panel domino centered on the line, I made up a simple jig from scraps that I glued a fence to the bottom to keep the jig edge perpendicular to board I was mortising and used the jig edge for a fence for domino. I was mortising a lot of columns and this increased accuracy and really speeded-up the process.
    thanks again, douglas

  • HalfInchShy said...

    Thanks, Douglas!

    Yes, a jig like that would help a lot if you had a bunch to do or even a drywall square that was actually square. I got lucky, one I bought before I got into woodworking is actually square!

  • Unknown said...

    I've watched this video five times and still can't figure out how you are getting the 3/4" MDF shelf centered on the line with the DF700. If you use the fence to mortise the end of the shelf with the 10mm setting then those mortises will be almost 1mm off center. I need to have it centered. That 1mm is too far out of tolerance for my project. Am I Missing something?