Tuesday, August 31, 2010
The existing one is shown here; bottom was a black melamine shelf while the top was some ply with cut 2x6 spray painted black. Hey, the pocket doors can hide a lot of evil.
TransTint black followed by 4 coats of General Finishes Polycrylic also with TransTint black. The black is very deep, but shows the grain very nicely.
To do it again, I'd just dye it on raw wood with india ink as the TransTint black has a hint of violet. It would also keep me from having to mix black into the finish. Also, Polycrylic is very nice to work with.
C-12's eccentric chuck is a life-saver for getting in with near zero clearance. Hope whomever ever has to remove it has one :)
A simple project, but I'm not working on bigger stuff until the cool air arrives!! (last two days have been super nice... so I'm stuck in a house doing flooring! d'oh!)
Since this original post, I added an overhead dust collection arm with a light. I also rolled a video giving a tour of the final setup. You might find the video good to see what all this is about especially for the dust collection. The construction details are here, though, for the router table dust box and insert; the other article gives details on constructing the overhead dust collection arm (which is fantastic now that I've used it for a long time).This week, I posted about the dust collection setup on my SawStop on one forum and posted about the router extension wing on another. Both are related so I thought to combine the photos of both posts for a more cohesive (!?) description.
First, the SawStop PCS comes with a right extension wing that fits between the SawStop fence rails; it's like a torsion box with one skin on top. I had a Woodpeckers stand-alone router table top I had been using for a long time. To save space and double up on dust collection, I installed it in the right wing. I have the 30" fence.
Before describing some details of how it's put together, a tour of the features.
Normally the back of the saw doesn't look so "hosey". The main black hose to the saw cabinet it typically tucked up near it, the router fence hose tucked underneath the table, and the excess green hose under the dust box, but I wanted it to be clear.
Further you'll notice in the previous picture that the hose off the guard comes straight off. This is a problem as your stock will catch it. When I use it, I set the fence then drape it over the end of the fence. A better solution I plan to try very soon is to attach a suction hose holder to the end of the fence; the block of oak at the end of the fence will receive a hole for the holder which should keep the hose high above the table and allow the hose to glide through it during fence adjustments. It will be an experiment. Barring that, I'll just put a long 3/4" oak dowel sticking straight up so I can more easily hook the hose to it.
Now, some details on how it's built.
No, I didn't do that; I used a TS-75 :)
You can see the top has 2 connector bolts through it. Those attach the top to the frame (previous picture shows the connector near the fence rail). The advantage of these bolts is that they facilitate shimming the table top higher than the frame to make the routing surface coplanar with the rest of the saw deck.
Yes, sorry, I paint shop stuff. :)
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Now, I wonder why that's such a wide-spread belief.
Same idea, cut by the blade as you drop the blade. Same idea, the fibers are supported as the blade swings around to make the cut.
But, wait. The blade for a miter saw does turn the same way, but from above; that reverses the attack on the stock. Essentially, as you slide the spinning blade into the stock, the teeth come up from below into the stock. When the tooth hits the stock, the ZCI is already out of the picture. The teeth will blowout the top of the stock and give you chipout there (more later). This is why you'll also find (good) recommendations to cut on the miter saw with the good face down. This is because you're gonna get chipout and it's gonna be on the top, regardless the ZCI.
On the other hand, a "zero-clearance" fence that you cut does give you the same support as a table saw ZCI for the back end of the cut. Without it, you'll get chipout in the back of the stock.
Now, one way to reduce chipout on the top is to make a scoring pass much like a scoring blade on fancy-shmancy Laguna table saws (no insult; I think they are way cool). To do this, drop the blade and push through the cut by barely skimming the surface. Come back and do the real cut. The skim pass will use the "bat ears" of the ATB blade to score the fibers and kick some out. The real pass will then have that top cut layer as a fiber-support layer. Simple and works like a charm. Eyeball it; you don't need to set a depth stop unless you are doing dozens of the same-thickness boards.
So those of you with a lovely Festool Kapex miter saw, quit sweating that a ZCI kills your dust collection. Leave the factory insert in place for the phenomenal dust collection and leave the ZCI idea in the land of unicorns. (hey, lend me your Kapex and I'll do an experiment!)
I have some other disagreements with common "woodworking myths". Stay tuned :)
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
My part is the part immediately below the TV around the center speaker (the bottom cabinet was purchased previously).
Initially, they just wanted a shelf that would stand precisely around the speaker, but I pointed out it would look silly to me to have a shelf narrower than the TV. From there, we got the width the same, but then what to do with the open areas on the side. They wanted just something flat to plug the hole. I suggested making doors that matched the style of the other doors so everything looked like it was intended to go together; the doors could hide remotes, the iPod dock, and access to the side jacks of the speaker.
The awkward part was getting a color match. I used Poplar then dyed it stark yellow with TransTint Amber Additive. Then stained it with a pad using General Finishes' Brown Mahogany water-based stain. I thought it came out pretty good; it is a hair darker than the main cabinet, but I thought that was better since it is set back and surrounds something black. Topcoat was Arm-R-Seal Satin.
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Above is a closeup of the mitered corner and profile.
This project is basically the last of the projects for this bathroom remodel. I have other ideas, but as long as I don't crack open drywall, nobody will know they aren't done yet. ;)
Monday, August 23, 2010
Sunday, August 22, 2010
In "Part Un", I blogged about a trivial but cool addition to my MFT-1080 that allows me to quickly get repeatable measured cuts on the off-cut side of the guide. Thing is, this grand addition partly assumed you did the modification I did to add 4 1/2" of crosscut capacity to the MFT-1080. Not everybody did that. Shame on both of you. :) Voilà, here, I'll show you how to create that handy detachable fence for use with the original MFT fence.
Measure the width of the extra fence you have; mine's about 35mm. Mine is a Festool replacement from the EKAT system; read Part Un for details. Note that it doesn't have to be a Festool fence; anything you can attach from behind will work although I had this and it uses the flag stop :)
Subtract the width of the fence from the distance in step 1. (17mm for me)
Subtract an extra 3mm (1/8"). (14mm for me)
The resulting measurement is the distance you want your block to be from that parallel row of holes. Mark the face you have facing those holes; it will face the fence.
Afterwards, push in two pieces of 3/4" dowel and glue in place. This should be a snug it to the MFT top.
Thursday, August 19, 2010
I've blogged about a make-shift small parts planing board that was specialized for mitered boards, but the point there was making something disposable for a special purpose.
shooting board, I took some of the scrap to make a less-blingy planing board. Basically, I hand planed some cherry scraps to 1/8" and 1/4" thickness then lined them up across the end of a board; these act as the fence and give me some options for thickness.
You'll notice that I used hide glue for the fence. During use, it'll get shredded. Once it's too bad, I can use a heat gun to quickly remove the fence and attach a new one.
This is a super trivial addition to your shop; make one now.
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
|Yes, I had Syrahz a lil before this...|
Hand-tool guys can add this to their "10 Best Reasons Not To Use A Power Drill"
Monday, August 16, 2010
Montana Brand Tools so you can pick these up separately.
Now, Bridge City always comes up with this clever packaging with a space for each thing (the CS-12v2 packaging rocks in this case, but that's another day).
Now, I have to wonder what optional accessory this cut-out is for. If the ladies who ordered this kit could chime in... Bridge City knew I already had one.
Sunday, August 15, 2010
Push the stock against the gauge and use it to guide the cut straight and square without the risk of kickback.
Saturday, August 14, 2010
flooring inlay on the narrow side.
The knurled brass knobs are for aligning the fence and are not installed here... you didn't think I'd put a plastic star knob on it, did you? It's my garage; got standards to maintain... :)