Sunday, June 20, 2010
Long ago, I had a discussion with the SawStop tech folks. Generally, staples won't kick the brake because they don't alter the detected capacitance of the blade. Only those large staples used on large corrugated cardboard boxes might trip it based on capacitance alone. The problem is this: sometimes when the blade hits the staple, the staple bends around the tooth and stays there until the tooth swings around to the brake. There's only 1/16" clearance between the blade and brake so the staple can make electrical contact with the aluminum brake, which definitely changes the capacitance. -bang!- another hotdog is saved.
In related SawStop news, summer 2010 will debut a new 1 3/4 hp @ 120V version of the SawStop PCS (which is 3hp @ 220V). This can be great news for people unable to get a 220V drop. Currently priced at $2,299.
Saturday, June 19, 2010
Friday, June 18, 2010
I fought back.
Recalling my previous tip to eliminate static cling from floor mats, I took the dry version. Make that the dryer version: a used dryer sheet.
I rubbed down the plane with the dryer sheet, especially the mouth and sole, and the shavings no longer stuck to the plane. Flipped upside down, they fell from the plane and mostly didn't stick to my arm. Joy!
The secret is an anti-static chemical in the dryer sheet. Rubbed on the plane, it neutralizes the charge from the shavings as they come off. Remember: used dryer sheet. New ones have a lot of waxy substance on them to distribute "Spring Freshness". Used ones do not. Used ones still have enough chemical to affect the magic.
To the old curmudgeons crying foul that somehow this anti-static chemical will alter the ultra-precise alloy's composition and negate all benefits of the cryogenic hardening... chill. It's just iron.
Monday, June 14, 2010
The projection of the knickers can be adjusted to match the blade. A more interesting use comes when you don't even use the blade. If you needed to score a line either using a fence or riding the plane body up against a fence, you could easily do it without using the blade. This can be handy if the score line is to mark the outside of a much wider dado you'll cut with a router for example.
The 1/16" blade (that I don't have, yet) lends itself to even more eccentric use. With the fence and the 1/16" dado blade with knickers in place, you could score the edge of a tenon getting the fibers perfectly scored before completing the cut with a tenon saw and back-paring with chisels.
Don't say I didn't warn you; slippery indeed.
I have two mirrors to install over a vanity. From the picture, you can see where one will go (above the sink) and to the right is a glass-bloc window that pretty much lets in indirect light all day (it was 1 am when I snapped this though). In this entry, I'm going to describe how I designed the profile as well as how I made it using power tools and hand tools. Likely some nose picking too, but we'll skip that.
- Use walnut for the close color, but let the grain show for interest.
- Use a cove to work with the coopered doors.
- Use fluting or beading to match the stile profile.
So, now that you've seen the resulting profile, how to make it (this is just like high-school calculus! start with the answer and work backwards!)
Bridge City Toolworks HP6v2 Multi-Plane. This plane has interchangeable irons and soles to give a number of profiles including the multi-bead I'll use here. (I have a more detailed introduction to this plane here.) The iron is a little under an inch wide and happens to be just the right size for the side of my profile. If I needed a wider swath of multi-beads, I could scoot the plane over and use a couple beads from the previous passes to anchor the fence and complete the cut.
Next up will be finishing the molding (dye, stain, finish) then assembling it into the mirror frames.
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Nothing crazy happening in the shop today; had company over :)
I did, however, grab a 12"x12" chunk of crotchy walnut and jointed one face flat with my Veritas Low-Angle Jack plane. I have it set to a 37° attack angle and it seems unstoppable (as is the A2 blade). Coincidentally, my friend Bud also posted an entry about the same plane (he had always eye-balled the Veritas low-angles, but my raving might have pushed him over the edge :)
the provincial bird of Manitoba is the mosquito. As such, they are big. Most people talk about taking mosquito-wing shavings with their plane, but I find that takes forever to level a hilly board like the one shown. Instead, I take Canadian mosquito wing shavings... 0.019"
The board isn't completely smooth yet, but there is almost no tear-out despite the crazy grain. The side is flat and I'll wait until after I have these two resawn before taking it down to a smoother and, maybe, scraper plane.
Now, a project...
Monday, June 7, 2010
Yes, back at the drawer fronts. This time, I'm applying the fronts to the drawers. If these were flat fronts, it would be easier, but this isn't terribly difficult.
To the left you see the fronts dry-fitted to the front of the cabinet. The bottom stick of wood is clamped for the overlay under the bottom drawer, a piece of blue tape to the bottom drawer's left marks it's horizontal position. The other drawers are all positioned relative to the bottom drawer using the blue tape up the middle of the cove that was put there before slicing the large panel into fronts.
The glue-up strategy is to apply the topmost drawer front and work down.
Remember that the PVA glue is water-based and when it hits the back of the fronts, they'll swell a little and cup away from the drawer. This is why it is important to clamp the be-jeez-uz out of it. The picture to the left is of two drawers. The one in the foreground is a 8" deep drawer so I pulled out the long-reach clamps (the two big red ones in the middle). They are 36" long so I have a cell tower in my bathroom at the moment.
Now, admittedly, I could have cut custom cauls for each side of each drawer as the bevel is different for each, but this is annoying when you already have the clamps lying around. How better to justify buying them?!
Now, to make this posting somewhat useful, I present a different way you could use to apply a flat drawer front to a drawer (cuz if you applied it elsewhere, well, you'd be silly).
BowClamp across the front of the drawer. You could have 2 across the front for a lot of even pressure without a ton of K-style clamps to try applying even pressure everywhere. ...and if you say, "oh but my stock is flat!", well, it will be until it hits the water-based glue.
So you ask, "why the spreaders inside the box?". Well, this drawer has no bottom so the pressure from the BowClamp will likely flex the front of the drawer box inward and the glue will set it. The spreaders make it that both the front and back are holding back the pressure. These drawer boxes are just 5/16" Beech and they didn't flex noticeably with the spreaders in place.
Is this better than your clamping strategy? Dunno, it is just an option if you have BowClamps around. Oh, you could just use parallels as spreaders inside the box and use K-style to pull the BowClamp flat on the outside edges... I couldn't show you with my scrap :)
Saturday, June 5, 2010
If you've read previous entries, you know that I've been working on some interesting drawer fronts for a closet built-in. Work and onset of summer lethargy kept me away from it, but tonight I sliced the drawer fronts from the large coved panel and attached the handles. Attaching the handles was an interesting project as I wanted no visible means of attachment. There are some interesting steps involved so I thought to share.
First step was to mark the locations of the cuts to separate out 5 drawer fronts. I did this by clamping the drawer-front panel to the front of the cabinet and marking directly off drawer locations. Since I'll need to line up the drawer fronts dead-straight or risk the cove staggering, I put a strip of blue-tape up the middle so visually I can line up the edges of the tape to the adjoining fronts when applying them in-situ. Yes, I could use the outside edge, but the cove is the key; the outside edges can be faired later if any deviations happen.
I inserted the drill bit into the hole from underneath and sighted the maximum depth I want the hole. Marked the bit with blue tape to indicate the depth. This step needs to be done for each hole. Normally I tried the same setting on the other hole for the same handle and it would be correct, but from handle to handle, it tended to be slightly different. Mind the projection of the brad and spurs.
West System epoxy to attach the handles. There'll be some in the recesses and the dowel will get covered before insertion to fill the hole. I'm using hardwood dowels for doweling jigs that have glue recesses on the sides; I think a tight-fitting smooth-sided dowel wouldn't work as well. I also added a little TransTint Medium Brown dye to the epoxy to better hide it. I also used the 404 filler for the epoxy since it needed to gap-fill; the dye masks the milky color of the epoxy with the filler. If I had to do it over, I would take plane shavings from the drawer fronts and grind them in a whirlybird coffee grinder and use that to fill the epoxy as it would be nearly identical in color. Eh, next drawers.
The glue-up was essentially applying epoxy to the ends of the handles, to the handle recesses, and slathering the dowel before inserting it. I did this over the gap between benches so the drip of epoxy landed in the garbage can.