In my previous posting, I went through a lot of detail on wiring a subpanel in my shop. I had a few questions since then and wanted to clarify here rather than edit something you might have already read.
GFCI Masters and SlavesChris asked me about the GFCI sockets that I used since I seemed to have them everywhere. Actually, for the most part, I do. Most of my 110V sockets are home-runs to the subpanel on their own circuit; there are no other sockets on that circuit. The beer-fridge circuit goes to a duplex GFCI socket with just that fridge on it. The bandsaw DC's circuit similarly goes to a duplex GFCI socket with nothing but DC on it.
You should label downstream GFCI sockets as "GFCI Protected"; a pack of labels comes with the masters. Mine isn't visible due to the garage door rail.
Socket Blade Orientations
Dumb TriviaInteresting trivia #1: which blade is hot? both for 220V, the right one for 110V (smaller blade).
Interesting trivia #2: why are 110V sockets polarized? To annoy the previous two generations. Seriously, though, it forces hot and neutral to known wires going to the appliance. Many appliances simply put the power switch on the hot side so when the appliance is off, there's no shock hazard. Previously, a switch that flipped both power wires was needed to accomplish this since you could plug in the appliance either way (so a blade could be in neutral or hot).