I previously gave a tour of my router table installed in the right extension wing of the SawStop PCS. Also showed how I made the overhead dust collection pipe with a light. Thing is, between the saw, router, and light, that makes for a lot of power cords going to the machine. Anyone who knows me knows I don't like cords or cables since I can be amazingly clumsy around them.
I recently took a couple weekends to install conduit in my shop in order to drop a number of 110V and 220V circuits; yes! finally I can run my drum sander without a long extension going into the living room. I'm not kidding.
One goal of that wiring job was to consolidate the power cords going to the SawStop, router, and light into a single feed. I'll walk you through what I did in case you find it useful for your situation. Note that this doesn't presume a SawStop saw; any 220V saw could use this setup.
Okay, with that out of the way...
(and will document!). The two hots come from the two hot buses of the subpanel, neutral from the neutral bus, and ground from the grounding strap. Even if you are coming from a main panel (not a sub panel), you will need all 4 wires. The reason I am specifying this is that people may read that a main panel ties ground and neutral together. You might therefore conclude that you can just run one wire for both. That assumption would lead to you having a bad (possibly short) day. In my forthcoming posting about wiring the shop, I'll explain that in much further detail.
(neutral goes to the wide blade of a socket; hot to the narrow blade). For a 220V circuit, you take wires from both hot buses; there is no neutral involved. Naturally, all receptacles require ground.
The fourth plug configuration in image shows the configuration we are interested in. Basically all 4 possible wires from a panel are brought to the receptacle. In the drawing, I showed the plug configuration for a 30A circuit although I ended up using a 20A twistlock format you'll see next...
(yes, ground should never conduct but "extension cord" wire is ordered this way); stranded because it is more flexible for making this pigtail.
(either one). Silver always gets a neutral (think of silver as whitish so it gets the white). I'll wire the white neutral here.
Ugly's Electrical Reference. The pencil points to the L14-20R configuration that is the twistlock shown earlier. I wired the twistlock socket according to the screw colors discussed previously.
(read the box to know how much insulation to strip and how much to strip from each wire). Push the wires through and screw them to the correct plug blades. The plug comes with documentation. As a hint, that "hot to brass; neutral to silver" storyline comes into play.
$4 meter from Harbor Freight; for continuity, it works well. It isn't a Fluke, but if you screw up and burn it out, it's basically a Venti Soy Latté out of your pocket.
While this whole process may see long and laborious, it really isn't. Whenever you run a 220V line for your saw, run a neutral as well and you can easily do this wiring. Also, this wiring isn't some freak of nature: this is how older dryer drops were wired and how generators are wired. That I broke it off into separate receptacles on the saw itself is likely the only unique thing.
12ga 25' generator extension cable from Harbor Freight shown here. Cut the cable however many feet you need from the plug-end of the cable. This is molded cable so stripping the outer insulation back is tricky work with a cutter, but I've done it to literally a dozen extensions. Once the inner insulated wires are revealed, you just run them to the box on the saw. I actually would have preferred this route had I realized it first because I like their yellow/black extensions (highly visible); molded insulation like that doesn't get twists in it so easily; the plug is molded onto the wires... no screws and half the size. Oh, and I paid double for just 10'!
The picture also shows the cover of Ugly's Electrical Reference. Definitely recommended, but only if you need a reference; it isn't a how-to.