Sunday, June 19, 2011

Sculpted Mahogany Vanity - Completing Bottom Segment

In this episode, we complete the frame for the bottom stack of drawers.  This one shows you a couple useful techniques with the Festool Domino that help when laying out Dominos mid-field on multiple boards (say, a bookcase), but it happens to be useful here.  Also show how to create a simple reference surface where one didn't exist making positioning very easy and quick.

I did this build in a way to show how the structure would sag when dry-assembled to better show the torque.  Like most demos, didn't go as planned as the structure didn't sag one bit! (Dominos:1 Paul-Marcel:0)  That doesn't mean this stack of drawers isn't going to be up against a lot of torque so we discuss how to significantly reinforce the sides.

The panel glue-up episode is next (half done already!) where we'll "pre-sculpt" the fronts and make plans for the gaudy drawer handles I'm looking forward to using...  It's getting more fun now despite that my shop now hovers at 100ºF :(

For the curious, you can get BowClamps from www.BowClamp.com.

Also, you can read Vic's blog article here.

Thanks for watching!

13 comments:

  • Vic Hubbard said...
     

    Thanks for the shout out! I think I'm finally sold on the Domino needing to be in my arsenal of tools. Great trick with the wooden screw clamp, too!

  • Mark Rhodes said...
     

    I like that technique with the guide rail on the mft, for all your drawer rails. I don't have the mft, so might try something similar on the two desks I'm making soon. I really wish my wife hadn't seen the cradle Vic....

  • Erik Gilling said...
     

    Loving the videos! I think this just advanced the Domino Doomsday Clock to 15 minuets to midnight.

  • Craig Feuerzeig said...
     

    Good Caul!

  • Brian said...
     

    excellent video, i love the mft guide rail technique. fantastic. i'm excited to see it all coming together!

  • Mark Rhodes said...
     

    Come on, updates....please:-)

  • Paul-Marcel said...
     

    Ah, yes, a long-weekend in LA and the whirlwind of stuff I had to do before it put me behind. Hope to have the panel attached soon for a mid-week episode. Then the sculpting one will follow quickly. :)

  • rmac said...
     

    I was glad to see that you added the plywood reinforcing panels to the bottom part of the vanity. I was looking for something similar in the earlier episode about the top as well. Are you planning to reinforce the top in a similar way, or are you thinking that the top will be more or less entirely supported by the reinforced bottom?

    -- Russ

  • Paul-Marcel said...
     

    I didn't plan on reinforcing the top since the top is bolted to the wall on the back and on the left. With the support of the bottom segment in the middle and the fact that the granite is rigid, I shouldn't get any sagging on the front right corner.

    If after it is mounted there looks to be a need, I can cut a piece and simply friction fit it inside the right side opening.

    The plan is to attach the panels tonight in preparation for sculpting them so video tomorrowish...

  • Bjørn Meldgaard said...
     

    Really nice trick with these magnetic 'little round placers' you use on the domino - could you possibly tell some more about them ?!?

  • Paul-Marcel said...
     

    Hi, Bjørn,

    The offset spacers unfortunately can only be used on the older pin-style Domino; if yours is that pin-style, give this older blog entry a read as it describes them and tells you where to order them.

    Domino Offset Pins

  • pmelchman said...
     

    the question I have is, do you ever get a domino that just does not align? It always seems that I have one corne rthat just won't be flush. maybe it's just my luck.

    pmelchman

  • Paul-Marcel St-Onge said...
     

    Hi, pmelchman,

    Since you mention a corner, I assume you are mortising Domino holes using the cursor hairs after drawing a pencil line across the joint (as opposed to the surfaces being flush to each other... if I'm wrong, lemme know).

    With my DF-500, that definitely was the case until I calibrated the cursor. The DF-700 on the contrary came dead perfect.

    I have a video that walks you through the calibration. Much easier than you likely think. There are other procedures out there (like in the extra manual), but I like this one because it usually takes one try and things are perfect. No squinting either. Give it a try and let me know; if you get stuck, look at my profile page for my email address.