Thursday, June 30, 2011

Sculpted Mahogany Vanity - Panel Glue-Up

In this episode, we make up the large Mahogany panel to wrap the bottom segment. Some tips for using the Festool TS tracksaw for panel jointing are explained and shown.  This is really a great technique even if you have a jointer.

You'll also see a 7'x2' panel get jointed (surfaced) by hand with three hand planes.  I'm a fan of diagonal and perpendicular planing so that's what you get. :) (Remember, 'normal' is a synonym for 'perpendicular'...)

We'll go over why the panel gets wrapped so early before sculpting and how we'll anchor it there.


Next episode is marking, pre-sculpting, and sculpting... it's the one I've been waiting for :)   Co'mon Saturday!

11 comments:

  • Brian said...
     

    You're welcome, I'm Brian, You're welcome for watching. Another video I enjoyed, my one critique is some of the "pop up" texts were during parts I was watching what you were doing and then had to rewind to read the text. Maybe leave them up for 2-3 seconds longer? IDK, Another great one Paul-Marcel!

  • Paul-Marcel said...
     

    Thanks for the "you're welcome", Brian! I'll try leaving the pop-ups longer just for you (what? no Evelyn Wood Speed Reading classes?!) When I watched it this morning to make sure it came out okay and that I didn't accidentally upload that hot Megan Fox video, I noticed a popup disappear before I read it, but I knew the answer already so I was okay with it ;)

    j/k, good point and I'll scale them longer!

  • Mark Rhodes said...
     

    The track saw tip for shooting the edges was good, I hadn't considered it before, and it would be useful for on site glue ups cheers. Oh and I loved the hand plane shuffle....

  • flairwoodworks said...
     

    I can't wait to see what you do for the sculpting. From 7/8" to 3/8" is only 1/2" and not a whole lot of material in my books.

    Chris, from the Westcoast where trees grow big.

  • Paul-Marcel said...
     

    Big-Tree-Chris, when sculpting the relief of the coral pattern, I know I'll dig the sander pad a bit in the "in between" areas, which will be presculted to 3/8" thick. Once the relief is done, I plan on using the smaller pad on the RO-90 to clean the "in between" areas, which will likely bring it down closer to 1/4".

    Maybe a greater relief height than 1/2" would be better, but I'm thinking it will be enough. Subtle is good enough here, I think. We'll see after the weekend. :)

    I liked the hand-plane shuffle, too, Mark! Looked funny in high-speed; shouldda found a song that matched the motion...

  • Brian said...
     

    perhaps flight of the bumblebee?

  • Steve said...
     

    Thanks for the edge-jointing tip -- could save a lot of time in the future.
    I am assuming you didn't use dominoes in the glue-up of the long boards because they could be exposed when you sculpt the surface. If you were not going to sculpt, would you have used them, or is there another reason you would not?
    Thanks for all the great work.

  • Vic Hubbard said...
     

    Always awesome!! I absorb flash pop up text subliminally, I'm pretty sure you must've buried some "Buy Festool" in there, too. I signed up for the different WIA classes last night and most everything I'm attending are scultping related. So, this is right up my attention deficit alley!

  • Paul-Marcel said...
     

    Hi, Steve,

    I didn't use Dominos primarily because they'd be exposed when sculpting (I'm still drawing the pattern I want so I could have never guessed where to hide them!)

    For a panel glue-up, the Dominos are only good for registration; the long-grain glue-joint is reputed to be stronger than the wood so boring a set of Domino mortises in a section technically makes it weaker. Since I knew I needed to joint the back anyway, I wasn't concerned about getting the surfaces dead flush. This S2S stock never stays flat, but it's already only 7/8 so I wanted to hand-joint to minimize loss.

    Dunno, 1,000 ways to do it; this is what I picked :)

  • Carl O. said...
     

    Thanks Paul for another great installment. You are very informative and talented. I am anxious to see the finished result. Even if your power jointer was readily accessible, you might find it a challenge to push boards that long over the jointer bed and get the accuracy you want. Thanks for what you do. It is much appreciated.

  • Paul-Marcel said...
     

    Thanks, Carl... I'm a power-jointing noob; not much experience with it. I know there is definitely a technique for handling longer items, but it's likely a lot of the same ideas as when using a 22" jointer plane to flatten an 8' board :) Er, I hope anyway. I have 4 handrail blanks awaiting cooler weather that will need jointing; they are 10-11' long each and I don't have a lot of material I can lose. I'll practice on other people's handrails first :)

    And, Vic! I missed your comment, but then we razz each other in Twitter anyway. WIA classes will be fun; you'll have to do a podcast of what you learn after you get back :)