Sunday, September 1, 2013

Refreshing a Guiderail Splinterguard and Dimple Marking Technique

A bit of a quickie video. I'm working on Angle Madness again and needing to cut the panels for the tapered octagonal drawer boxes. For that, I really need the splinterguard on the MFT to be dead accurate. It always has been, for years, until I needed to quickly cut something on the MFT during the Tim Burton Table build while I had the Panther blade in the TS-75. Unlike the TS-55 blades that all have the same kerf width, TS-75 blades sometimes differ.  Now, my splinterguard is about 0.5mm off.

The first part of the video, though, covers something I often do anyway with the saw: dimple marking (my own silly term :)  With the saw on the rail, it's easy to use the ATB blade to mark exactly where the cut will be. Great for verifying and occasional adjustments. For 12 panels, I want the splinterguard accurate...

Second half of the video shows how to bump the splinterguard over so you can recut it accurately. Seems easy enough, but it comes up on forums all the time. Usually people are trying to peel it off and reuse the aged adhesive. I'll show you a better way that works quickly and has no peel-off problems.

After posting this, some people asked about the turners' tape mentioned in the video. It is essentially a double-stick tape. A good one is this one from Lee Valley.  The one I used in the video is from InterTapePolymer.com, but I can't find the woodworking store that sells it now.

I used a different brand that I have handy. Many woodworking catalogs will call this type of double stick tape "turners' tape" since, I guess, turners use it (I don't turn yet!)




4 comments:

  • Tim Raleigh said...
     

    Great tip Paul! Thanks.
    I need to change some of my splinter gaurds and this was a timely video.
    Have you ever used transfer tape for this?
    Tim

  • M. Cieslewicz said...
     

    Hello Paul, great tip. I noticed you have your stops on the left side of the stop. Assume this is for the Quas Dog method you use. I struggle getting the guide rail perfectly square, many attempts, alway just a little off of square over wide pieces, I use a good Starret builders square to check, maybe I am too picky, you ever encounter this over long cuts. We thank you for your great videos, hope you continue.

    Mike

  • Paul-Marcel St-Onge said...
     

    Thanks, Tim! I edited the post to put the maker of the double-sided tape I used. It's InterTapePolymer.com, but I cannot find it on their site or at likely woodworking sites I use. It is very thin and very strong once you burnish in the strip. Reading the description of the transfer tape, it sounds exactly like this tape, possibly better.

    I have some of that transfer tape around here; I may peel back the last 4-5 inches of this strip and put the transfer tape there instead to verify. The InterTape, though, is on the other rail and doing fine after at least a year.

  • Paul-Marcel St-Onge said...
     

    Thanks, Mike!

    I put the stop for the guides on the left of them because I routinely remove the front guide and it is closer to the right edge of the MFT. With the stop, it is easy to slide it back on calibrated (the whole point of that screw).

    I've used the Qwas system for a long time. While I haven't verified square yet on this new latest calibration, I've done it many times on previous ones and was always happy.

    Whenever I have a wide-ish plywood or MDF scrap, I'll set the fence stop to a number then cross cut it. I'll verify the number on the fence scale was accurate then measure the hypotenuse of the cut (back corner against fence to front corner by crosscut) and calculate how long it should be. The cut always showed square against a square and the hypotenuse within a millimeter which I consider very good when the calculation is a value over 600-700 mm.