Frank's latest DVD as a gift (oooh, signed!) I started watching it this week. It starts with this exact same lecture and over 7 hours of Frank content... absolutely worth the price.
Frank prefers to layout dovetails by eye. The inconsistencies are what clients are looking for in hand-made furniture. That said, even gaps in dovetails (uh, within reason!) are desirable.
In making reproduction furniture, you can certainly use machines, but all machine marks must be removed by hand tools. Surfaces jointed and/or planed need touch-up with a hand smoother to ensure there's the subtle feel of plane tracks and no remnants of that helical-head planer.
Further, hidden surfaces are rather coarsely processed leaving visible plane tracks. These surfaces would include the back slats, underside of the whole cabinet, back of the bracket feet, etc. Since jointing and planing stock was much more work than tossing it into a machine, time was only spent on visible surfaces. This is also the case with finishing though we know now that balancing the finish front and back is essential to better stability.
When planing the underside to give tracks to the texture, he'll often give a swipe or two against the grain to get small amounts of tear out.
Show surfaces get planed smooth, scraped, then lightly sanded with P180.
Good tip: when attaching a mirror to furniture or jewelry box lid, be sure to use mirror mastic; if you use silicone, you'll see spots on the mirror after a few years. Yeah, I might have done that mistake.
No Comment #1 build, the bombé box's sides and mini-bracket feet are all made the same way as these feet. Pretty easy to do (you can see the exact same process in action on a smaller scale in No Comment #1 for the feet here except those feet had the bombé profile applied with a router bit; for these feet, the bombé profile was done on the table saw like the No Comment #1 box sides).
The drawers will get two brass pulls each; likely these pulls.
Whew, yeah, I needed another unfinished project :)